Disassembling Your Brake Pads For Replacement
1. Get the right brake pads for your car. You can get pads at a local dealership or any local auto parts store. Just tell the professionals your car’s year, make and model, then select a matching pad that fits your budget. Usually, the more expensive pads will last longer than the cheaper ones.
Most of the time, the less expensive pads will be a bit noisier than the “brand name” ones. Some very expensive ones, that have a very high metal content, are usually aimed at the ‘Rally’ market, to be used with specific performance rotors. Avoid these, since they will probably cause wear quickly if used with standard rotors.
2. Make sure your car’s parts are safe to touch before working with them. If you have driven recently, your vehicle likely hasn’t cooled down yet, so your rotors, calipers and pads will probably be really hot – just give it some time.
3. Loosen your lug nuts. Use the lug wrench that’s provided with the jack to loosen every single of the nuts that hold the wheels on the car approximately 2/3 of the way.
Make sure you don’t loosen all tires at the same time. Most of the time you’ll at least change the two pads at the front or the two at the back. It depends, however, on your vehicle and how evenly its brakes wear. In any case, start with the back or the front.
4. Jack the car up with care, until it can comfortably be removed. Check your car’s manual in order to find the right position for using the jack under your vehicle. Make sure you put something to block the other wheels in order to prevent the car from rolling in any direction.
Even though you should indeed place a jack stand under the vehicle’s frame, do not trust it alone. Do the same thing for the other side, so that both sides of your car are supported securely.
5. Finally, remove your car’s wheels. Only finish loosening the lugs and start removing them after the car is raised correctly. Simply pull the wheel straight out in toward yourself, and it should come off.
Should your wheel rims be alloy and on studs, you should clean everything: the stud holes, the studs, the rear mounting surface and the rotor mounting surface, by using a wire brush. Apply anti-seize compound before you refit the wheel.
Here’s a GREAT video about changing your car’s brake pads…
6. Then, remove the caliper bolts, utilizing the ring-spanner or socket of the correct size. The caliper should fit over the brake rotor similarly to a clamp, and its supposed to slow the wheel through the use of hydraulic pressure. When the brake pads and the rotors create friction, it will slow the vehicle to a stop. Generally, calipers come in two-piece or one-piece designs. They are secured mostly with two or four bolts inside the axle housing, which is where the tire and the axle fit together. Use the PB Penetrating Catalyst or WD-40 in order to aid removing the bolts.
If the caliper pressure is correct, the caliper at rest should move back and forth a bit. If it doesn’t, it is under pressure, and might fly off as soon as the bolts are removed. Be careful when checking so that your body is not in caliper’s path, even when it’s loose.
Also, look for shims or performance washers in between the mounting bolts of the caliper and the mounting surface. If it’s the case, remove them, and pay attention so you can replace them later. You will have to refit your caliper without the pads, so measure the distance from the mounting surface to the pad, so you can replace them correctly.
Various Japanese cars utilize a two-piece sliding caliper. This caliper only requires that you remove two forward-facing bolts, with 12 to 14mm heads. If it’s the case, you will only have to slide them, and won’t need to remove the caliper.
7. Carefully, hang your caliper by using a small piece of wire at the wheel well. It’s still going to be connected to the brake line, so you should hang it up with a small piece of scrap metal such as a wire hanger, in order to prevent it from putting pressure on the flexible hose.